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The differences between a well-made henley and a barely passable one might not be immediately apparent, but once you know what to look for, you’ll have no trouble telling the pretenders from the genuine well-made article.
When not just any blue will do, it’s got to be Pure Blue Japan. They are the undisputed world champions when it comes to textured, vibrant blues. Though their reputation is largely based on their slubby and character-drenched denim, they’ve really upped their basic game in recent years. Their slubby tees and longsleeves have leapt off the shelves, and it’s not hard to see why when you get up close with one. Most brands have measurements in both cm and inches, and most tape measures have each demarcation on either side, too. Just don’t mix the two up, or else you’re in for a very odd fitting shirt.Just like t-shirts, henleys make for great layering pieces, though they should always be worn on bottom, or closest to the skin. How to Wear a Henley Shirt The best makers use loopwheeled cotton. What selvedge is to denim, loopwheel is to cotton, and it’s even easier to spot once you know what to look for. Loopwheeled cotton is woven around a cylinder, so it has a huge advantage over other forms of cotton: no side seams. Once you’ve ditched the side seams, the premium you pay for loopwheeled tees and henleys (and that trademark tubular fit) is more than worth it. You might already be incorporating a henley or two into your looks. If this is an area of your wardrobe where you’ve settled for mass-market, the henley is probably not doing much more than keeping you warm (and even that might be a stretch). Clutch Café ships from the UK. If they’re sold out, or if you’re looking for other places to buy Pherrow’s, try: Son of a Stag (UK), directly from Pherrow’s (Japan), Maplestore (Australia) For the henley to be truly adaptable, it needs to be well made. The cuffs keep their shape, and the collar doesn’t wilt like a slice of processed cheese. For the henley to work its magic, it needs to have a little bit of heft, and it needs to be prepared to go the distance with us.
The reasons for the shirt’s popularity are fairly obvious. Whether made of thin cotton or wool, it provides a warm base layer for cool mornings or evenings. When the day’s work properly begins, it can be unbuttoned and the sleeves (if long) can be rolled up to the elbows. It can be worn as a base layer or as a stand-alone shirt. When measuring the arm length for a henley shirt, use a tape measure to note the distance between your shoulder blade (the bone, not the muscle), down to the end of your wrist. Rub the face of the garment between your fingers. It shouldn’t feel thin or flimsy. At the same time, it shouldn’t be stiff or rough to the touch. It shouldn’t feel silky smooth either, but you should feel a strong desire to put the henley on and feel it next to your skin.
Long sleeve henleys are more forgiving than other types of shirts because they look fantastic with the sleeves pushed up. So even if you get the measurement slightly off, just budge the sleeves up an inch or two and you’ll look like an effortless hunk. Button Up We’re leading off with Merz B. Schwanen’s version of the henley because their cotton basics are first and last on many well-made lists. Merz is one of only factories in the world (the others being in Japan) that produce authentic loopwheeled cotton, and this means that their tees, henleys, and sweatshirts are in high demand. If you’re looking to buy a henley thermal, I recommend going with a lighter color, like white or off-white. As a general rule, you should always put the darkest layers on the outside, with lighter layers underneath. They’re a pillar of comfortable and fashionable looks, and we’re going to help you find one that will be the first thing you reach for in the morning. Well-Made Henleys Are Timeless
If you’re going with the solo henley, match it to the rest of your outfit like you would with a standard t-shirt. Earth tones and neutrals are always a safe bet. How to Layer a Henley Thermal Other Real McCoy’s henleys to consider: USN Wool Henley Undershirt (warm and military-grade tough), Double Diamond Eyelet Knit Henley (looks a thousand years old brand new), Double Diamond Wale Knit Henley (micro-rib classic) Other Merz b. Schwanen henleys to consider: 206 Henley (fewer vintage details), 204 Henley (roomier version of the 206), TR206 Good Training Henley (sporting henley with Merz branding) Stuff ships from Germany. If they’re sold out, or if you’re looking for other places to buy Phigvel, try: Nakamuraya (USA), Lieutenant & Co (Australia), directly from Phigvel (Japan)Other PBJ henleys to consider: Hemp Blend Henley (with horizontal stripes) available in Indigo x Blue and Indigo x Red Because of its clear and lasting connection to athletes and working men, the henley only becomes a truly timeless piece when it’s had its face rubbed in the dirt a few times. It is not meant to stay crisp and new for long. It’s meant to be used and abused. Like jeans, a white or cream henley is never fully our own until it’s started to take on sepia tones. If you want the best selection, try one that specialises in vintage workwear. They’re the ones most likely to have at least a few of the well-made and essential henleys we’ve included on this list. Why are henleys called henleys? You might suspect that the name has English roots, and you’d be correct. Early in the nineteenth century, competitive rowers in the small Oxfordshire town of Henley on Thames adopted short-sleeved versions of the half-buttoned shirts. Each year, at the Henley Royal Regatta, it became practice for the losing squad to give their shirts to the victors.
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