Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Layer Wild Rider Red

Product Information

Somehow it took Games Workshop until the end of the 2010s to realize one important fact: People like pets. 40k saw the release of Kill Team: Rogue Trader, which included an extremely good boy, while Age of Sigmar has embraced Khornedogs, Gryph-Hounds, and Aetherwings for the Bloodbound and Stormcast factions. Where they’ve really outdone themselves is, as is so often the case, in Necromunda, where every gang has had an associated pet to accompany their gang leaders. Even Enforcers are getting in on the fun! Credit: Games Workshop The remaining miniatures from the box were painted up to match my existing Tyranid force. I have quite a large army of these guys already, as well as a subservient Genestealer Cult, so I’ll be dropping these straight into that collection – which actually featured in the Crusade section of the previous Tyranids codex. The great thing about this scheme is that if I need to paint a lot of models fast, as you often do with Tyranids, then they look great and ‘Battle Ready’ at just the Contrast paint stage and I can add the highlights later.

The hexadecimal color code #ea2f28 is a shade of red. In the RGB color model #ea2f28 is comprised of 91.76% red, 18.43% green and 15.69% blue. In the HSL color space #ea2f28 has a hue of 2° (degrees), 82% saturation and 54% lightness. This color has an approximate wavelength of 609.74 nm. Our readers might be surprised to learn that not all painting is done on models! I painted this picture of my beloved yet troublesome cat, Mini, at a “drink wine and paint stuff” event hosted by my employer in what I think was the Spring of 2012. This picture was taken in the Summer of 2011, when Mini was still a wee kitten. I’m also highlighting the reds at this stage, doing blends of Khorne Red with Mephiston Red. The White parts get washed with Apothecary White, which we’ll then revisit, shading in the spots in-between feathers with Nuln Oil and doing some extra highlights with Reaper Pure White.The white armor got primed with Stynylrez Grey, and an initial coat of Vallejo Model Air White Grey was applied. I built up highlights with Vallejo Model Air Insignia White and Vallejo Model Air White (using the final pure white only very sparingly). If I was doing these again I’d probably use ProAcryl Titanium White instead. It’s not a different color, but it’s the nicest white I’ve used and I need to sing its praises everywhere. I hit them all with a Satin Varnish at this point – you can make satin by mixing gloss and matte roughly 50:50. We’re not aiming to hit every edge here as we’ve already got highlighting from our airbrush gradients, instead try to aim for only edges that would catch the light with your first stage highlight and only the most dramatic edges with your second stage. The model receives a wash of Army Painter Soft Tone followed by a drybrush of Vallejo Game Air Bonewhite and a second drybrush of Vallejo Model Color Gloss White. This is the same method I use for the bone color in my Primaris Marines and will serve as the foundation for the colors on top. Using the thinned air paint creates an interesting glaze effect which both highlights the edges and tints the entire model. Red highlights are perceived as different colors more easily than others. You can add white but then the highlights are "pink", or you can add yellow, but then they read as "orange". When we paint blue, green, yellow armor, we tend to just process those colors' highlights as "light blue" or "light green". This is sort of arbitrary and a byproduct of our color naming conventions, but I think it has an impact on how we perceive color. That means that you need to highlight with a much more careful and precise hand than other colors, because when the pink or orange stray too far from extreme edges, you negate the sense of "red". That just doesn't seem to be the case with other colors. This highlighting problem leads a lot of people to try to get away with not adding enough highlights, going for a more flat red "realistic" look, but most of the time that approach doesn't look good from more than about a forearm's length away, and doesn't photograph very well either.

Pet love extends beyond the bounds of Games Workshop. Knight Models get in on the action in a whole bunch of ways, from Harley’s hyenas to the giant goddamn demon that Damien Wayne drags around. But none more majestic then the owls that the Court of Owls deploy. Owl. Credit: Lupe

Now for the finishing touches. A Flesh Tearer should be blood-stained so I drop some Blood for the Blood God on his chainsword and some drops on the base to make him suitably stained. The base is Astrogranite drybrushed with Celestra Grey and then some Valhallan Blizzard and tufts of Army Painter static grass on top of that. I’m very happy with how this guy turned out and may paint more of these in the future if I can settle on a faster way to do the shoulder pad icons. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones Three coats of Daler Rowney FW Crimson acrylic ink. Each coat brings more vibrance to the red, so do as many as you feel you need. If you want more of the purple tones from the official GW schemes, try using either Process Magenta or Purple Lake as your first layer, or mixing it into the Crimson. Apply another layer of Ultra Matte Varnish to bind the pigment and give the whole model a consistent finish. These Citadel Layer paints from Games Workshop are designed to be used straight over Citadel Base paints and itself, without any mixing. If you use several layers of this high-quality water based acrylic paint on your models it will create a rich and natural finish that will look as amazing on display as it would 3 hours into a gruelling battle. The paints are supplied in 12ml pots and can be used on any plastic, metal or resin models. They've also got their speedpaints range if you fancy something like Contrast but cheaper. I've bought a few now. They go on smoother more easily than Contrast, but you still need to be somewhat careful with coverage and soaking up pools on flat surfaces, but the results can be pretty impressive, I'd say this is accurate.

Gloss varnish the whole thing. While the acrylic inks dry fairly glossy, they’re a pretty fragile coat that you want to add some protection to.Contrast Wyldwood for the pouches, a dab of Contrast Iyanden Yellow on the Purity Seal, Skulls and weapon housing for a spot of colour. World Eaters armies frequently charge into battle alongside Khorne Daemons. You can find more on how to paint them here.

The unit was undercoated with White Scar Spray before being given an all over wash with Skeleton Horde which was highlighted with Flayed One Flesh. Softer, fleshier, bits between joints and the tentacles were then painted in Fireslayer Flesh Contrast paint and highlighted with Jokaero Orange . Bony carapaces, spikey bits, teeth and blades were first painted with Garaghak’s Sewer and then raised up with Catachan Flesh before a final highlight of Mournfang Brown . Lastly the compound eyes were painted with Baal Red Contrast paint, washed with Agrax Earthshade and then given a subtle dash of ‘Ardcoat gloss varnish to make them glisten. Rhinox Hide: Rhinox Hide is a rich brown color that can be used in combination with Wild Rider Red to create an analogous color scheme. This color can be used to create a sense of depth and balance on the miniature and can also be used to paint the details of the miniature, such as the markings and symbols. This poor cat was left abandoned when the nice old lady who owned her became destined for some kind of horrible giger-esqe kitbash. She was found wandering in the desert, so I gave her the forever-home she deserved. Apply decals, if you’re using them. I don’t have any floating around, so they’re absent from mine – but the official schema is a white battlefield role marker on the right shoulder, a blood drop over that denoting chapter, an ornate Arabic numeral on the right knee for the squad number, and the chapter icon on the left shoulder.

Conversion Table

I do not remember the exact colors or ratios I used to render my sweet daughter on canvas. Looks like there was some grey, purple, yellow, red, and white. Feel free to attempt to paint my lovely companion animal yourself, and share with us the result. Red is, bar none, the hardest color to make look good on power armor. It's worse than yellow, there, I said it. The Wild Rider Red acrylic paint from Citadel Colour is a premium color that’s ideal for painting miniatures. The base coat is a deep, rich crimson with a matte texture that offers good coverage. To ensure that the color is stable and long-lasting, the pigments used in the paint are carefully chosen. Wild Rider Red is a fantastic base color for any beginner’s palette since it offers a stable foundation for layering and highlighting. For factions who utilize red as part of their color scheme, it can be used as an alternative to a primary red. What armies to paint with Wild Rider Red In our How to Paint Everything series we look at how to paint well, everything, with different techniques and approaches from different painters. In this article we’re looking at how to paint the blood-crazed warriors of the XII legion, the World Eaters. The Imperial Guard: The Imperial Guard are the primary troops of the Imperium in Warhammer 40K. Wild Rider Red can be used to paint the details of their armor and weapons, such as the markings and symbols of the Imperial Guard.