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Loop (choke) lashing is particularly effective when these loads are carried at an angle over the headboard of a vehicle or trailer. You must use a minimum of 2 loop (choke) lashings for this type of load unless each item is individually clamped to the headboard. Positive fit is a way of securing a load inside a trailer or vehicle body that’s strong enough to withstand the forces likely to be exerted on it during the journey, for example a vehicle or trailer constructed to the BS EN 12642 XL standard. Cut out the wood; then lay the an-chor on the two pieces and, lining up on the centerline, mark the positions of the crown, fluke, and shank recesses. You can achieve positive fit with cylindrical loads (such as paper reels) when the extremity of either one reel or two reels side by side is within 8cm of the side of the vehicle or trailer.
increase the height of the load (for example, by placing empty pallets or other suitable item on top of it)Yes. I used to work in a boatyard and you will be amazed at how much hull deflection you can get on some boats, and more so with the modern stuff as much of it seems to be much lighter in construction than the older boats. If you decide to do the calculation yourself, you must use a coefficient of friction of 0.2 in the calculation unless: If the end is too small, do not use it on your tire and discard it. You will need a larger piece for this step.
Gather the necessary supplies: two pieces of 2×4 lumber, metal corner braces, and screws. You’ll also need a saw, drill, wrench, and screwdriver. An example of choke lashing - the most effective way to secure loads that extend over the headboard. Understanding the strap label The STF is the working tension in the strap created when the lashing is ratcheted down over the load. It’s only used to calculate the number of lashings needed in frictional lashing. Frictional lashing is most effective when the angle of the lashing relative to the load bed is as close to vertical as possible. If the angle is less than 30°, the lashing will not be effective. First of all, you’ll need a high quality chisel with a 1/2″ blade. The “secret” of good woodworking is to make sure your edged tools are really sharp. Take the time to dress your new or old tool on a good Arkansas stone using light oil as a lubricant. Take great care to keep the angle con-stant as you stroke the stone; other-wise you’ll be rounding the edge rather than sharpening it. When you can shave a hair from your arm, you’ve got the edge sharp enough.The LC is the maximum force the lashing can safely withstand without damage when pulled in a straight line. It’s only used to calculate the number of lashings needed in direct lashing. Standard tension force (STF)
Most ratchet straps used in the UK have a label attached to them with information about their strength and how they can be used.Now you’re ready to chisel out the !recesses. If you’re an experienced ‘wood butcher, you’ll have your own procedures. If not, here are some suggestions: Design the larger piece so that about 3″ of the flukes and all of the shank are contained in a resting posi-tion. Design the crown rest with at least an inch of width outside either edge of the crown.
A divisible load is a load that can be broken down into multiple smaller parts, such as a bundle of pipes or bars.Provided you have time inthe lift dropping the rudder out is fine. Providied the cradle is big enough to provide support as you take strain off the slings then you will be best putting the boat into this first so that she is fully settled with the weight on the keel before putting props in all round. There is a real risk of dammage if you put a prop in before all the load is off the hoist of the prop causing excessive pressurein a single spot. As said elsewhere you may well find that the boat pivots as the weight comes off. You will also need to ensure that the boat stays upright. If you havn't done this before please get somebody who has done a few to help. Once settled in the cradle a good number of props tied together as shown on the Saddler should be fine. Make sure that the props are positioned on strong areas of the hull. If you are determined to leave the mast up strip off all you can, frap rigging hard to prevent vibration and even consider wrapping a warm round and round the mast as a 'vortex shredder'. I personnally thing the right size cradle is the thing to get and take away a lot of trouble and worry. The shank slot is easier insofar as its edges are parallel, more difficult in-sofar as there’s a longer slope to cut and smooth, But the procedure is the same as with the fluke recess. Drill a control hole; a 5/8″ bit produces a 5/8″ slot (which is good for anchors up to about 20 pounds.) Then proceed as before, carefully and patiently shaving down the sloped slot.
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