Games Workshop Citadel Layer: Yriel Yellow

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When I’m painting miniatures, I tend to take pauses to make sure my progress is going in the direction I originally planned.

I was tired of cleaning up after myself, so I decided to adopt this little fella in the hopes that maybe the floor would be a little less messy. The good news is that it worked great; my floors are bare. The bad news is that he’s also eaten the leather couch, three of the neighborhood cats, and both of my legs. “Rippy” the Ripper. Credit: Kevin Genson Ultimately, I’ve discovered that I prefer using a regular brush more than airbrushing most of the time. Even though painting yellow across large models is still easier with an airbrush (see this 3D printed Imperial Fist Assault Tank paint job), I feel more accomplished when I finish a miniature painting with a regular brush. If you want to push your highlights to a brighter value, you can add brighter paints to mix with your yellow. Lastly, it’s time to highlight all the metals. This is the longest part of the process, but the one that makes all those details pop and brings the scheme together. I went with Stormhost Silver, as I wanted to maximize the contrast and definition of these models. Normally I’d do some weathering too, but these models are already so busy that adding scratches and such just seems like it would be too much.

CMYK

To fix uneven open surfaces, I take a regular model paint with a similar yellow color as my base coat paint and prepare to dry brush. In this case, the closest color to the base coat Iyanden Yellow is Citadel Yriel Yellow.

The Orks: Orks are known for their bright, garish colors and Yriel Yellow can be used to paint the details of their guns and vehicles. It can also be used to create a sense of energy and movement on the miniatures, as well as to create a sense of chaos and anarchy. Khorne Red: Khorne Red is a deep, rich red color that can be used to create a split-complementary color scheme with Yriel Yellow. This color can be used to create a sense of movement and energy on the miniature, as well as to break the monotony of the yellow. Let your viewers’ eye travel over the model by adding interesting points at different parts of the model. If you do want to focus your painting efforts, I would suggest make sure the “face” is well-painted. The face carries the rest of the model in most cases. OPTIONAL STEPS Heya i recently bought a "small" cough batch of SM's as i wanted something different to paint than only my tau army. So i choose SM's because i like them and the new special GW model tempted me, and i got the 2016 special SM miniature as a Gift from my GF :D You can use this technique on owls from Games Workshop too. I switched the basecoats out for Zandri Dust but otherwise it’s the same process. Owl. Credit: Lupe

#ffda00 foreground

Our readers might be surprised to learn that not all painting is done on models! I painted this picture of my beloved yet troublesome cat, Mini, at a “drink wine and paint stuff” event hosted by my employer in what I think was the Spring of 2012. This picture was taken in the Summer of 2011, when Mini was still a wee kitten. This poor cat was left abandoned when the nice old lady who owned her became destined for some kind of horrible giger-esqe kitbash. She was found wandering in the desert, so I gave her the forever-home she deserved.

Evil Sunz Scarlet in a smaller crescent atop the previous one, leaving space for the Khorne Red towards the center The pink is Liquitex INK! Magenta painted over the tongue. You may find yourself having to re-do the base after the blue gets everywhere; for the tongue don’t worry about applying more drybrushing or anything. I just cover the mistakes with Bonewhite and move on. For a little extra depth you can apply a wash of AP Purple Tone, but it’s not necessary in this case. The T’au Empire: The T’au Empire is a faction of xenos known for their advanced technology and use of drones. Yriel Yellow can be used to paint the drones and machinery of the T’au, as well as the energy fields that surround their weapons. This color can also be used to create a color scheme that mimics the color of the T’au’s battlesuit. I tried to paint them in smallest chips as much as possible by using very fine paint brush. Keep in mind that a small size and randomness make it looks more natural, and try not to overdo it.This process takes time and patience to finish but the result will be worth in the end.

Reikland Fleshshade wash all over the skin, including the mouth where we’ll just leave that shading as is coat d'arms match the OLD citadel colours so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference,

For myself, even if I’m aiming for a tabletop ready paint job, I need some semblance of completion in the form of a few details.For this project, I used an airbrush to coat my models with gray Vallejo surface primer in a spray booth. Spend the time to prepare your models for paint and save a lot of time later. 2. Apply a single coat of Yellow Citadel Color Contrast Paint They actually look entirely different from the vehicles, but that works. For these guys the lore is that vehicles are out in the field and the toxic wasteland fighting for months at a time and are beaten to hell, and the infantry are either inside the vehicles or they are dead. You can see in this group shot that they all look fine standing side by side. In fact, the different paint schemes actually help, making the infantry pop rather than blending in to the vehicles behind them. As you’ll see in the images, I simply took an inexpensive synthetic brush and applied a heavy undiluted coat of the contrast paint over the model. Sure, as I’ve mentioned, normally yellow paint is difficult to work with because your first coat doesn’t do the job of providing good coverage.