Stanley 4 Smooth Plane 2 Inch 1-12-004

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If that’s all set ok, I think it’s possible you aren’t applying enough downward pressure on the planing stroke. You need to press down on the front of the plane when starting the stoke, balance the pressure through the stroke and put pressure on the rear of the plane at the end. Some people describe it as trying to plane a hollow in the middle of the board. Stanley Type 8 Handplanes date from 1899-1902. The “7-24-88” is the only patent date found on the lateral adjustment lever, and “STANLEY” is still there. The “S” casting marks are eliminated and replaced with “B.” SUITABLE FOR: Removing very fine shavings from a variety of wood types to leave a smooth finish. When used effectively, the “No. 4” Sweetheart™ Smoothing Bench Plane from STANLEY® can produce a finish that equals or surpasses that made by conventional sandpaper. This is the standard-size smoothing plane. After other planes have done the prep work, it will take the finest shavings from the most difficult woods to leave you with a finished surface. Stanley Type 5 Handplanes dates 1885-1888. It has two patent dates, “2-8-76” and “10-21-84”, stamped with the word “STANLEY.” It has the same trademark stamped into the iron, except that “STANLEY” is in a straight line, in large letters. The lateral lever is one-piece construction and engages the slot straight across the iron. The frog top is no longer rounded but flattened into an arch shape. The rest of the logo is in small letters.

Identify Stanley Hand Plane Age And Type (Type Study How To Identify Stanley Hand Plane Age And Type (Type Study

I’m fairly sure the lever cap and screw is set correctly – it’s definitely not too loose, if anything I set it too tight and had to loosen it to allow me to adjust the depth. Suitable for removing very fine shavings from a variety of wood types to leave a smooth finish, when used effectively, the “No. 4” Sweetheart™ Smoothing Bench Plane can produce a finish that equals or surpasses that made by conventional sandpaper. Thanks both for your replies. Maybe the blade isn’t as sharp as it should be. So I guess the first thing is to buy a honing guide and get the bevel perfectly angled and sharp, and reassess. It’s just strange how it’s ‘skipping’ over the wood with literally every stroke, even when the blade is set so shallow it’s barely taking anything off. I’ve tried adjusting my hold on the plane, doesn’t make a difference. Hey Ty! Thanks for the comment. If I were to guess, I would guess that this plane is from the 1980s. However, I'm told Stanleys of that era have ribs in the casting. There really is not much information out there that I've found. In the end, what really matters is the surface of the wood. I find knots in pine can be difficult to get a nice, smooth surface on, but this plane did a superb job.

They were decent tools, not great as built, but I didn't care for the look and feel over a vintage tool. Just look at the lever caps on those planes. The old one has flowing curves and from the side the curve blends with the side curve of the plane. The new one is crude by comparison, as though the designer couldn't figure out how to get the shape into his CAD system. Work through your problem logically. I think that this is a good little plane and it’s trying to tell you something……………

No. 4 – what am I doing wrong? - Woodworking Topic: Stanley No. 4 – what am I doing wrong? - Woodworking

Look for the depth-adjustment nut, and you should be able to tell if it has a diagonal knurling pattern on the outside or not. If it has, the plane is Type 18 and dates between 1946 and 1947. SMOOTHER PLANING: Solid brass adjustments enable effortless planning, while a one-piece base and frog virtually eliminate chatter, delivering exceptional accuracy and a smooth finish. English made Stanley planes seem to be less desirable then the US made ones. Why is that? Are they inferior? I very much agree with your opinions on the aesthetics of this plane. I guess I'll have to post some more pictures. The old one definitely is cooler and makes me smile more. I was only trying to make the point that the new one is every bit as capable of working as well as the old one on the wood. I used this plane exclusively on a recent project with great results. I think the number one thing in getting a plane to work is making sure it is sharp.Before writing this blog, I tried to do a little research on when this plane was made. There really isn't a proper type study of Made in England Stanleys like there is with the US versions. The best I could come up with was this link by Time Tested Tools which calls this plane an English type 3, produced from 1945-1972 (Stanley first started making planes in England in 1937). To my eye it looks newer than that, but I'm not an expert. Please comment if you know anything about when English planes were manufactured.

Understanding Bench Planes | Popular Woodworking Understanding Bench Planes | Popular Woodworking

Stanley Type 12 Handplanes date 1919-1924. The knob is taller than the previous style. The taller knob is called a “high knob.” The brass depth adjustment nut is measured at 1.25″ in diameter, which is larger than the previous one. There are logo changes. In conclusion, I don't think one has to feel ashamed of their late model Made in England Stanley. This plane can definitely hang with the big boys. The rear totes are different, too. The type 11, however, has a user made tote that may or may not be the same shape as the original. I've been meaning to make my own tote for it, but haven't gotten around to it yet. The English No. 4's tote is comfortable in my hand, so perhaps I'll make a new one similar to this one. Stanley Type 11 Handplanes date from 1910-1918. The APR-19-10 patent date appears with the other patent dates cast behind the frog. There is a new trademark adopted, where “STANLEY” “NEW BRITAIN” “CONN.” “U.S.A.” forms a v-shaped logo. Stanley Type 15 Handplanes date 1931-1932. They remove all patent info on the bottom casting. “BAILEY” is now cast behind the knob toward the rib, and the number is directly in front of the knob.My time in the Army taught me that raw brass needs to be polished every day or it will start to tarnish and look muddy in a very short time. I thought I'd try an experiment and dip the newly polished brass in shellac to see if it would prevent the brass from oxidizing. I'll report later if it works or not. I only did this to the knob and tote nuts, not the blade adjustment wheel. I figured it was more important for me that the wheel felt right. Made from Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified cherry wood, the handle and knob are shaped to fit the hand naturally and comfortably, providing comfort in extended or repetitive use. It might just be sharpness of the blade Kirsty. You should be able to push the blade into the edge of a sheet of paper and have it cut cleanly or do the thumb nail test and see if the blade bites if you touch it to your nail (be gentle!). Make sure everything seats – mainly make sure that the slot in the blade/chip breaker is siting down over the tab and the lateral adjuster pin. Don’t worry too much about the lever cap being perfectly centered. There’s a fair amount of slop in all of that and you can twist those lever caps around quite a bit. Just make sure the cutting iron is razor sharp. If it isn’t, you’ll dig holes instead of cutting shavings. After a sharp edge, the chip breaker is the most important part of the plane and can, if not fitted correctly, lead to some of the problems that you describe.

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Stanley Type 9 Handplanes date from 1902-1907. No patent date on the lateral lever. “B” casting marks are eliminated. The number designation is now cast just behind the knob. A smaller bearing surface is cast into the bed. The frog has a slot at its bottom to fit over the ribbed cast in the bed.Today I decided go a bit more in-depth with my rehab of this plane, and work on the cosmetics. The first thing I did was polish up the brass with toothpaste and a gray scratchy on the parts that needed it. A lot is said about the ribbed face vs. the flat face on the frogs and I see no benefit to the flat face. The lever cap only presses on the blade at the lever and the bottom of the cap iron. The middle has no pressure on it at all. A MODERN CLASSIC: Today’s modernised Sweetheart™ series, updated to meet the latest needs of modern-day craftspeople, boasts a range of premium woodworking tools based on their original 1920s designs, including the iconic “No. 4” Smoothing Bench Plane itself. If you're a woodworker, finding a Sweetheart™ tool is like finding a treasure, and many still consider Sweetheart™ to be the best of the best.